Panerai is one of those brands that stands out—bold, functional, and full of history. But to understand what makes it different, we need to start from the very beginning.


In 1860, a man named Giovanni Panerai opened a small shop in Florence, Italy. It sold watches, offered repairs, and—uniquely—served as the city’s first watchmaking school. This was more than just a store. It was the starting point of a family legacy rooted in precision and practical design.

Panerai History: A Legacy Born from Function

Giovanni's grandson, Guido Panerai, expanded the business in the early 1900s. He saw an opportunity to work with the Royal Italian Navy and began developing tools and instruments for them. This partnership would become central to Panerai’s identity.


In 1916, Panerai introduced Radiomir , a luminous substance made with radium. It glowed in the dark, making it easier to read equipment in low-light or underwater conditions. Though it was originally used for tools and gauges, it laid the foundation for what would become Panerai’s most iconic watches

Panerai history – Italian military diver and officer wearing Panerai watches

Built for Combat, Not Commerce

In 1936, the Italian Navy needed a wristwatch that could handle diving missions. Panerai answered with the first Radiomir watch . It had a large, cushion-shaped case and an easy-to-read dial. Rolex supplied the case and movement, while Panerai focused on the dial and assembly.


These watches were built for utility, worn by combat divers in an elite unit called the Decima Flottiglia MAS during World War II. Their design wasn’t about looks—it was about reliability in the harshest conditions.

The Shift to Luminor

By the 1950s, the dangers of radium were becoming clear. Panerai developed Luminor , a safer material based on tritium, and released a new case design to match.


The updated watches featured thicker lugs, a crown-protecting bridge, and what’s now known as the “sandwich dial.” This new look was bold, functional, and instantly recognizable—everything Panerai stood for.

The Rolex Connection

From the 1930s to the 1950s, Rolex played a key role in Panerai’s development. Their waterproof Oyster cases and reliable mechanical movements helped Panerai produce durable, military-grade watches.


These early Rolex-Panerai collaborations are now some of the most collectible vintage watches in the world. They represent a moment when two legendary brands worked together to solve real-world challenges.

The Depth Gauge That Never Was

In 1956, Panerai came up with an idea that was ahead of its time—a wristwatch with a built-in depth gauge . Designed for Egyptian military divers, the watch could measure how deep the wearer was underwater.


Although it was never mass-produced, the concept showed how Panerai always thought like engineers. It wasn’t about making fancy watches—it was about solving problems.

Panerai history – vintage Ref. 6154

Opening to the Public

Until 1993, Panerai watches weren’t sold to the public. They were made for military use only. That changed when the brand introduced its first commercial collection. The watches were still big, bold, and simple—just like the military versions.


Shortly after, Sylvester Stallone discovered Panerai while filming in Rome. He wore one in the movie Daylight and even ordered custom editions for friends. This Hollywood connection helped introduce the brand to a whole new audience.

Panerai history – Sylvester Stallone wearing Panerai Luminor in the movie Daylight

The Richemont Era

In 1997, Panerai was acquired by the Richemont Group, a global luxury powerhouse. With more resources, the brand expanded its lineup, developed in-house movements, and opened boutiques around the world.


Despite the growth, Panerai stayed true to its roots. Even the latest models reflect the original principles: clarity, reliability, and strong visual identity.

Signature Models

  • Radiomir 1936 – The very first dive watch Panerai created.

  • Luminor Marina – Known for its crown guard and clean dial.

  • Submersible – A modern take on the rugged dive watch.

Egiziano (GPF-2/56) – Built for the Egyptian Navy. Huge, distinctive, and rare.

More Than a Watch Brand

Panerai has earned a loyal following over the years. A global community known as the Paneristi continues to support the brand, drawn to its design and purpose-driven heritage.


Panerai doesn’t follow trends. It focuses on function. These watches are made to be used—and that’s exactly why they connect so deeply with owners.

Modern Materials, Same DNA

Today, Panerai is still innovating. The brand uses advanced materials like Carbotech and Fibratech , and has committed to using recycled steel and lowering its environmental impact.


Even with all these updates, Panerai watches still feel like they’re made to serve a purpose. They’re built to perform—and built to last.

Why Panerai Still Resonates

Wearing a Panerai is different. It’s not just about the design—it’s about the story behind it. The weight, the shape, the simplicity—they all come from a time when watches were made for missions, not for marketing.


Many Panerai owners choose to match their watch with a Panerai rubber strap , adding comfort and flexibility without losing the rugged character the brand is known for.


In summary: Panerai started with a simple goal: to build reliable tools for professionals. Today, it stands as a symbol of function-first design, trusted by divers, collectors, and watch lovers around the world. Its history isn’t just impressive—it’s built into every watch it makes.

Albin Andersson

Albin Andersson